Houzz Editorial Staff; writer, musician, father, husband.
Your kitchen might be the workhorse room in your home, but it also might be working against you and your waistline. That’s the scenario Brian Wansink (pictured) — a professor at Cornell University and the director of Cornell’s Food and Brand Lab, where he’s the leading expert in eating behavior — presents in his new book, Slim by Design: Mindless Eating Solutions for Everyday Life (September 23, 2014, HarperCollins, $26.99).
The book is divided into chapters on how the design of restaurants, supermarkets, lunchrooms and our home kitchens affects our mindless eating habits, those triggers that cause us to eat more, snack more and eventually gain weight.
Have an all-white kitchen? Do you keep cereal in view? Got a TV and big comfy chairs in your kitchen? Then you’ve got several booby traps that might cause you to eat more without even realizing it.
“Things aren’t determined by our tastebuds’ being fixed,” Wansink says. “It’s factors around us. Color, light, the size of our plates, a cereal box — knowing how these things influence us, we can reengineer our environments to mindlessly eat better and eat less instead of relying on willpower alone.”
Here are a few tips from the book:
1. Take all food off the counter unless it’s fruit. In what’s referred to as the Syracuse study, Wansink and his research team visited 240 homes and measured and photographed everything. They documented plate size, whether there were TVs in the kitchen, spice racks, radios, you name it.
After eight months of analyzing the photos and data, one of the things they found was that food on the counter is really bad. Women who had a box of cereal visible anywhere on average weighed 21 pounds more than a neighbor who didn’t.
In another study the team moved the candy dishes from on top of the desks of 40 administrative assistants to inside their desks. The average assistant ate 74 fewer calories each day. “The equivalent of not gaining 5 or 6 pounds over the next year,” Wansink writes. “The best thing you can do is not to have food sitting out in the kitchen, unless it rhymes with roots and wedgies.”
2. Get rid of the clutter.
It’s not just food working against you, either. All those piles of mail and newspapers and gadgets aren’t doing you any good. Wansink has found that in cluttered environments, people eat 44 percent more snacks than those in a clutter-free environments. See how to get a spotless, organized kitchen
3. Paint your kitchen anything but white.
OK, this is a tough one. According to a Houzz survey
, almost 75 percent of homeowners prefer a soft and neutral kitchen. But Wansink has found that white and bright spaces tend to stimulate eating.
But the opposite spaces are bad too. Really dark rooms with low lighting and soft music tend to slow people down, causing them to linger and eat for an average of nine minutes longer. “The darker the space, the longer you stick around and the more likely you are to break down and have another serving,” says Wansink, adding that an in-between color is best. His own kitchen is pumpkin colored. “It’s in between two evils,” he says. “Gold, green, blue, tan, earth tones — those are all good. Any color seems to work other than white or cream.”
Another trend is the decline of the dining room. Wansink says one of the best strategies is to eat in the dining room, because you’re farther from the food. See more on in-between colors
4. Make your kitchen less lounge friendly. This is another suggestion that goes against what many homeowners seem to want in their kitchens.
These days the kitchen is the hub of the home, where kids do homework, where messages get posted and, yes, even where TV watching occurs. But, according to Wansink, this all creates a pitfall when it comes to snacking. “The more you hang out in your kitchen, the more you’ll eat,” he writes.
When people removed things like TVs, iPads and comfortable chairs, they reported that they spent 18 fewer minutes in the kitchen each day. “That’s less munching on cereal, chips and Samoa cookies,” he writes.
5. Make it easier to cook. Wansink admits that the science isn’t as strong here, but it’s based on a few trends he and his team have observed about what people say they do.
Things like making it easy to prep food, especially vegetables, making sure your fridge door swings directly open to the sink and having bright halogen spotlights, music playing and a prep space for a helpful friend, spouse or kid — these things entice people to cook more fresh food at home.
(He notes that the direction of a fridge door can be switched for $40 unless it’s a side-by-side model.)
6. Rearrange your food.
You’re three times more likely to eat the first food you see in the cupboard than the fifth one, Wansink has found. That means if the first thing you see is a bag of chips, look out. Instead, make sure the healthy foods are the first ones you see and toss the chips and cookies in the back.
After people moved their fruits and veggies from the crisper to the top shelf in the fridge and the less healthy foods into the crisper, they reported eating three times as many fruits and veggies.
Wansink sometimes even suggests moving the pantry to another room far away from the kitchen. (The pantry becomes the coatroom, say, and the coatroom becomes the pantry.) Or putting shelves or cabinets in a laundry room — or in a basement, which is what Wansink and his family did to make the pantry less browsable for snacks, and to give them a few more steps of exercise.
Why not just vanquish tempting foods? “First, it’s fine to have an occasional treat,” he writes. “Second, it’s not realistic if you have growing kids who constantly forage and bring friends over to feast.” For this try setting up a designated “kids’ cupboard that’s off-limits to you,” he recommends.See more on cleaning out the pantry
7. Reconsider your plate size. Most dinner plates are 11 to 12 inches in diameter. Since we subconsciously fill up our plates — and we tend to eat more than 90 percent of what’s on our plates — plate size can affect the amount of calories you’re eating. It works like this: “Two ounces of cooked pasta is about 1 cup, has around 300 calories and looks huge on a 10-inch plate,” Wansink writes. “The same 2 ounces on a 12-inch plate — the size most of us have — looks like a measly appetizer, so we serve ourselves another spoonful. If we do that just once a day, we’ll eat about 80 extra calories. If we eat off these plates for three meals a day, it quickly adds up.”
A small difference can make a big impact, though. A 9- to 10-inch plate will allow you to eat less. Wansink warns that if you go below 9 inches, you will likely realize you’re being fooled and will go back for more servings. If you use a larger serving bowl, you’ll end up dishing out 17 percent more. Use a large serving spoon, and you’ll take on 14 percent more calories. Glasses, too. You’ll pour more juice or wine into a bigger glass than a smaller one. You’ll pour more into a wider one than a narrow one. “When it comes to setting your dining room table, think small,” Wansink writes.
Wansink is the first to admit that nobody is perfect and that it’s impossible to do everything. He’s developed a 100-point checklist, featured in the book, that allows homeowners to gauge how well their kitchen is working for them. It contains phrases like, “There is a blender on the counter” and “A fruit bowl is visible.” Check fewer than 40, and your kitchen is working against you. Above 60 and it’s working for you. (I scored a 48. Wansink’s family got an 83.)
“People who don’t have a microwave or keep their microwave in a different room tend to weigh less,” he says. “They cook more from scratch and eat fewer pre-prepared foods. So you can move your microwave to another room. But not everyone is going to do that. That’s fine. There are 99 other things you can do too.”
And Wansink knows what you’re thinking: Now that you know all of this, you won’t snack so much, right? Wrong. “During the day’s chaos, our automatic behaviors lead us to make the same mindless eating mistakes we’ve always made,” he says. “We suffer — and so do our kids. It’s really difficult to become slim by willpower. It’s a lot easier to become slim by design. You change it once and forget about it.”
Use this handy home maintenance checklist to keep your house—and property—in peak condition this winter.
Fall is just around the corner: time to get your house in shape for the cooler months ahead. Although autumn can be one of the busiest seasons for homeowners preparing for winter, it’s also the best time to take advantage of the moderate weather to repair any damages before the first frost sets in. Here are some home maintenance ideas that will keep your home running in peak condition all winter long.
Check foundation for cracks and caulk around the areas where masonry meets siding, where pipes or wires enter the house, and around the windows and door frames to prevent heat from escaping. “Caulking and sealing openings is one of the least expensive maintenance jobs,” says Michael Hydeck, Hydeck Design Build, Inc., Telford, PA, and National President, National Association of the Remodeling Industry (NARI). “Openings in the structure can cause water to get in and freeze, resulting in cracks and mold build up,” he says. “Regardless of whether you live in a cold or warm climate, winter can bring very harsh conditions resulting in water or ice damage. A careful check of the outside structure combined with inexpensive maintenance can save you money in the long run.”
Install storm windows and doors and remove screens. Before storing, clean and repair screens, spray with a protective coating and place in a dry area of the basement or garage.
Inspect exterior walls to see if any paint is peeling or blistering on the house or outbuildings. According to Carl Minchew, Director,Benjamin Moore Paints, “Peeling paint is a sign that the existing paint film is failing and can no longer protect the siding of the building. Left uncorrected, the siding itself will deteriorate, leading to expensive repairs in the future.”
Make sure the roof is in good shape. Inspect for missing and loose shingles. “Ice, rain, snow and wind combined with rapidly changing temperatures and humidity wreak havoc on roofs,” says Jay Butch, Director, Contractor programs for CertainTeed Roofing. “Your roof is your first defense in protecting your home. Without it functioning properly, water damage can occur. This causes deterioration to insulation, wood and drywall, making electrical, plumbing and HVAC systems vulnerable. It’s better to proactively deal with repairs in the fall than to discover a leaky roof during a snowstorm. For safety’s sake, have a licensed, certified roofing professional check the condition of your roof.”
After leaves have fallen, clean out the gutters and downspouts, flush them with water, inspect joints, and tighten brackets if necessary. Clogged gutters are one of the major causes of ice dams. Replace old or damaged gutters with new ones that have built-in leaf guards.
Examine your pool cover for damage and replace if necessary.
Weather-strip your garage door. Make sure the seal between your garage door and the ground is tight to prevent drafts and keep out small animals.
Inspect your driveway for cracks. Clean out and repair any damage with driveway filler, then coat with a commercial sealer.
“Heating and cooling amount to 47% of the energy costs in your home. Proper sealing and insulation can save up to 20% on heating and cooling costs, or up to 10% on your total annual energy bill,” says Katie Cody, spokeswoman for Lowe’s. “Air leaks from windows and doors are easy to find by moving your hand around the frame. Applying weather stripping and caulk to these areas will help cut down on drafts.”
Have your heating system checked by a licensed heating contractor. Heating systems will use fuel more efficiently, last longer and have fewer problems if properly serviced.
Get your woodstove and fireplace in working order. Gary Webster, Creative Director of Travis Industries, suggests that you examine your wood stove or fireplace insert’s door gasket for a tight seal. Also clean and inspect the glass door for cracks and have the chimney cleaned by a licensed chimney sweep. “A clogged chimney poses the risk of a chimney fire, which can be ignited by burning creosote—a combination of wood tar, organic vapors and moisture buildup,” says Webster.
Change the direction of your ceiling fan to create an upward draft that redistributes warm air from the ceiling.
Test and change the batteries in your smoke and carbon dioxide detectors and keep extra household batteries on hand.
Check basement windows for drafts, loose frames or cracked panes.
Vacuum internal parts of air conditioners. Remove units from windows or wrap outside box with an approved tarp or plastic air conditioner cover in order to prevent rusting of vital parts.
Clean your humidifiers regularly during the heating season. Bacteria and spores can develop in a dirty water tank resulting in unclean moisture misting out into your room.
YARD AND GARDEN
Organize your garage. Clean and store summer garden tools.
Clear leaves from lawn, reseed patchy areas, and plant spring flowering bulbs. If deer are a problem, start deer-proofing by covering plants with netting and chicken wire.
Prepare your yard equipment for storage. This includes draining fuel from all gas-operated equipment such as lawn mowers, leaf blowers, and chain saws.
Check to see that all of your snow equipment is up and running before the first flurry falls. Organize your snow clearing gear. When snow arrives you’ll want to have shovels, roof rakes and snow blowers where you can get to them. “Be careful where you store equipment,” says Travis Poore, The Lawn Ranger, a Home Depot Community Expert. “An outbuilding may not be as well insulated as a garage incorporated into a house. Equipment that is stored out in the elements, exposed to heat and cold extremes, can develop problems when the gasoline can no longer vaporize and flow into the combustion chamber of the engine.”
Drain garden hoses and store them inside. Also shut off outdoor water valves in cold weather. Any water left in exterior pipes and faucets can freeze and expand breaking the pipes.
Inspect and fill bird feeders. Keep in mind that once you start feeding birds you should continue on a regular basis throughout the winter months.
Fertilize the lawn with a high phosphorous mix to ensure healthy grass in the spring.
PORCH AND DECK
Check the supports, stairs, and railings on porches and decks. Make sure the handrails can support someone slipping on snow or ice.
Clean porch and deck furniture, and look for any needed repairs. Cover and store outdoor furniture and barbecues in a protected area.
Make sure all soil is emptied from pots and planters. Dirt left in clay pots will freeze and cause the pots to crack if left outside.
View our Fall Home Maintenance Tips slideshow.
Slideshow: 10 Fall Home Maintenance Tips
For a printable PDF Home Maintenance Checklist, click here.
Household allergens can cause a variety of symptoms in many people, including sneezing, watery eyes, coughing, and shortness of breath. Allergens may also be a contributing cause of asthma, especially in children. However, it is possible to minimize the effects of such allergens by taking steps to control their presence and dispersal in the home.
The most common household allergens include dust mites, mold, mildew, pollen, and pet dander (dried flakes of skin shed by pets, particularly cats and dogs). Effective control relies on a combination of measures that, when used properly, will reduce the levels of allergens.
Increase ventilation to the home. Opening windows whenever possible promotes good air exchange and will reduce the concentration of airborne allergens, especially pet dander.
Wash bedding and stuffed toys once a week in hot water to control dust mites and cat allergens in particular.
Keep pets clean and well groomed to control dander.
Use mite-resistant mattress covers and pillow covers and wash them frequently.
Dust and vacuum regularly, and use microfiltration or HEPA filter vacuum bags. The jury is still out on whether bagless vacuum cleaners are more effective in removing allergens than those that require bags; some studies indicate that many bagless vacuums are not sealed tightly enough and can actually exacerbate the problem. Wearing a dust mask while dusting and vacuuming is also a good idea.
Consider removing wall-to-wall carpeting and use easy-to-clean area rugs instead, particularly in bedrooms.
Make sure bathrooms, especially those with showers, are well ventilated. Open the window and use exhaust fans that vent to the outdoors to prevent a buildup of moisture, which can encourage growth of mold and mildew. It's a good idea to keep the fan running and the door open for at least ten minutes after showering.
If possible, reduce indoor humidity to 50% or less by using room dehumidifiers or the dehumidifier feature available with many central air conditioning systems.
Clean or replace furnace and central air conditioner filters on a regular basis. Make sure that air conditioner drain pans are clean and allow the water to drain properly.
For more information on allergens in the home, please contact your local Pillar To Post office.
Roger.Rygg@pillartopost.com Maple Ridge: 604-462-7020 www.pillartopost.com
Updated: Fri, 22 Aug 2014 09:00:00 GMT |
If life can be described as an endless cycle of decay and renewal, the same can be said for houses. The decay part happens when the windows start leaking, the doors no longer fit right, the drywall bulges, the carpet disintegrates, the tiles crack, the fence falls down-you get the picture.
The renewal part? That's you fixing everything broken, tainted, tarnished, outmoded, outdated, or out-of-kilter. The question, as always, is whether to attempt to do the work yourself, or bring in experts to do it for you. It's a deceptively difficult question to answer, and it's one you're going to want to get right.
The first and most obvious reason to tackle your own home renovations is money: you can save thousands of dollars on many home improvement projects by handling the labour yourself. Before you start hammering apart the bathroom tiles or clawing up the carpet, however, there are a few additional things to consider. First off, are you physically up to the challenge? Drywall is heavy; sinking fence posts in solid clay can feel like a labour of Hercules. And you, who sit in a cubicle all day tapping away at a keyboard, are you fit enough for long days in the construction game? You'd better be sure before you pick up that hammer.
Self-knowledge is even more important. Robert Koci, publisher of Canadian Contractor magazine, points to the executive who pulls in $500,000 a year but still does his own home renovations because he enjoys the challenge and change of pace. "There's something eminently satisfying about working with materials instead of people," says Koci, who's spent his life in and around the building trades. "Materials don't lie. Materials are subject to understandable laws that don't change. For some people, that's a welcome diversion from managing people for a living."
The converse, of course, is that inexperience and a lack of professional-calibre tools can quickly drive one to screaming fits of frustration. "Do-it-yourself challenges who you are and what you're about," says Koci. "If you're impatient, disorganized or easily stressed, DIY might not be for you. If you're the kind of person who enjoys learning and is intrigued by new experiences, yes, DIY is definitely for you."
Some jobs, of course, are harder than others. "Start small," suggests Koci. "Choose projects you think you can handle. Work your way in gently, and build up to bigger, more complex renos."
And what exactly are these small, easily undertaken DIY renos that can save you big bucks over hiring a contractor? Some of the most common include installing a hardwood floor, trimming a room with baseboard and crown moulding, tiling a bathroom, hanging drywall and building a wooden yard fence. Each involves unique skill sets, tools and materials, as well as cost savings versus hiring a contractor. Best of all, they're projects a typical homeowner can undertake with limited experience, and still be proud of the results.
Installing a hardwood floor
When RBC account manager Dale Conrod moved into a 30-year-old townhouse with his young family a few years ago, he knew he had some reno work ahead of him, especially when it came to the flooring. "We had old, ugly carpets throughout the living room and dining room, and the choice was to replace the carpet or go with something a little nicer," he recalls. "We decided to go with hardwood, and since my wife had a co-worker whose husband was really handy and volunteered to help me, I decided we could do the installation ourselves."
A good call, because as he soon discovered it really wasn't that hard. "We went to Rona, looked around, and they had red oak on sale for $6.25 a square foot, so we went with it." The hardwood came pre-varnished and pre-cut into various lengths from one to four feet, with tongue and groove joints for easy installation. "It fit together like a jigsaw puzzle," he says. "Once you put your first line down it really goes very quickly. One guy throws the boards down, the other uses the nailer, and you just start trucking along. When you get to the end of a row you make a cut with the circular saw so it's flush against the wall, and then you start on the next row."
The key to making it look good, he says, is to pre-sort the wood by length and grain. "Some of the boards have a lot of straight grain and some have kind of a swirly grain, so you want to mix it up so you have the different grains throughout the floor. Also, you have to vary the lengths so your joints are staggered instead of lining up."
The last row usually has to be ripped to make it fit snug against the wall, which is where the table saw comes in. Since Conrod already owned a table saw, he was all set. "Otherwise I probably would have tried to borrow one from a buddy, or rent, because there's no point buying such an expensive piece of equipment for one job."
Working steadily, the two men were able to finish four rooms-kitchen, living room, dining room and hallway-in a single weekend, saving more than $2,000 in labour versus having the work contracted out. So, would he do it all again? "Probably not," laughs Conrod. "We have more money now, and I'm a bit older and lazier. But at the time it was definitely the right decision."
DON'T MESS THIS UP! Especially during the dry winter months, you don't want to make the mistake of installing your floor immediately upon delivery. "Leave it for a couple weeks to let it get to the same level of heat and humidity as the rest of the house," advises Conrod. "If you don't it'll shrink and you're going to get gaps."
Install hardwood floors in three rooms and a hallway (total 700 sq ft)
- Hardwood flooring: $4,375
- Compressor, nail gun, nails: $200
- Table saw (rental): $100
- Total: $4,675
- Contractor price: $6,855
- Save: $2,180
- Circular saw/chop saw: $100
- Tape measure: $25
Crown moulding and trim
Of all the renovations you can undertake, nothing beautifies a home quicker and easier than crown moulding and baseboard trim, says Chris Dore, a long-time contractor, woodworker and installer with Ottawa Community Housing. "It makes an immediate impact on the look and resale value of a home, and it's something most homeowners who are reasonably handy should be able to do themselves."
The key to a great-looking job, he says, is matching the size of the moulding to the height of the room. "For a standard eight-ft ceiling you can go with a four-inch wide crown. Anything lower you can drop down to three or 3.5 inches, and for high, cathedral ceilings you can use the largest crown available."
Moulding can be purchased at big-box stores like Rona and Home Depot at pre-cut lengths of up to 16 feet, or by the linear foot from custom wood shops. "Buying by the linear foot is usually better because you're almost guaranteed less waste, and can also avoid having to make extra joints halfway along a run," says Dore.
There are also a variety of materials from which to choose, from MDF, or medium density fiberboard, to pine, to beautiful hardwoods like oak or cherry. Of these, the hardwoods are the most expensive and least forgiving to work with, in part because you can't cover your mistakes. "Say you have a fancy library room and you want to trim it in solid cherry or oak," says Dore. "The material costs triple, and if you cut a 12-ft piece a quarter-inch short and you're using a clear finish it's very difficult to disguise that, whereas if you're painting a piece of pine or MDF you can hide those joints with caulking and paint."
Once you've decided on a material, the installation is pretty straightforward. You'll need a good quality compound mitre saw and either a compressor and brad nailer, or one of the new butane-powered nailers on the market. "Butane guns are better because you can shoot about 1,000 nails with a single canister, and you're not dragging a compressor hose around," says Dore.
Measure your pieces carefully and use the miter to make perfect 45-degree cuts for the corners. Glue both sides of any joint and nail the rest of the run to the wall. With a little practice you should be able to install lengths of up to eight feet by yourself; longer runs are better installed with a helper. "Get your family to help," suggests Dore. "Anyone can hold up a piece of wood." Then caulk the top and bottom to cover any gaps in an undulating wall or ceiling, paint (unless you're using hardwood) and you're done.
DON'T MESS THIS UP! Hardwood should be limited to rooms with relatively level ceilings and flush walls. "If your ceiling or walls are out of alignment you might want to go with a material like MDF, which you can bend and manipulate a little," says Dore. "If you're using a solid-wood material like a big piece of oak, you're not going to be able to bend that even an eighth of an inch. Stick it up and it will just highlight how bad your walls and ceiling are."
Install crown moulding and trim in four rooms (12 x 12 ft each)
- 200 linear feet of 4-inch $600pine moulding
- Compressor, nail gun, nails: $200
- Compound mitre saw: $150
- Four-foot level: $30
- Caulk: $20
- Total: $1,000
- Contractor price: $1,700
- Save: $700
- Tape measure: $25
- Set square: $20
Tiling a bathroom
Working with wood is one thing, but what about tile? Surely tiling is too intricate and fiddly for the average homeowner…or is it? Dale Hollingsworth, a professional garage door installer and all-around handyman, says that despite misgivings on the part of some homeowners, there's no reason to fear the square, ceramic stuff. To date Hollingsworth has tiled a pair of bathrooms-the first in his Ottawa home, the second in his country home on Sharbot Lake near Kingston, Ont.-and each time the job has turned out beautifully, while saving him a bundle on labour.
One of the keys, he says, is buying tiles that are easy to work with. "Smaller tiles come in one-ft sheets held together by plastic or fibreglass backing, so they're pre-spaced and held in a perfect square. If you're going with larger, three- to six-inch tiles, buy the ones with protruding edges on them so when you push them together they're automatically spaced. It avoids the use of those little plastic spacers, and it's a real time-saver."
Once you've decided on the tiles you want to install, mix your mortar (cement) and apply it to the wall with a special v-groove trowel. "Cement these days is extremely bondable," says Hollingsworth. "It holds the tiles in place even on a vertical wall, and they won't sag or anything. Just push them against the cement and you're done. It's fairly quick."
When you get to the edges and corners you may have to cut tiles to make them fit: use a special tile saw, otherwise known as a wet saw, to prevent chipping or cracking. Wait a day for the cement to dry, then apply your grout with a rubber tile float, making sure you fill the joints completely.
Wait an hour or so until the grout sets a bit, then clean off the excess, first with the tile float and then with a damp grout sponge. "Start by cleaning the joints, and then go over the face of the tiles to get the fog off. If you do it at the right time and with the right amount of water, it goes easily."
DON'T MESS THIS UP! Cleaning grout can be tricky, because you have to let it set long enough to become firm, but not so hard that you can't remove the excess with a grout sponge. "Timing is critical, and it all depends on the temperature and humidity levels in the house," says Hollingsworth. "If it's really warm out, it'll dry fast, and once it hardens it's extremely difficult to remove. You have to scrub and scrub. It's horrible."
Tile a three-wall bath and shower stall (total 100 sq ft)
- Tile: $500
- Cement: $15
- Grout: $15
- Tile saw (rental”): $40
- Tile float: $5
- Grout sponge: $5
- V-trowel: $10
- Total: $590
- Contractor: $1,090 price
- Save: $500
- Tape measure: $25
Drywall a room
Whether you're finishing a basement, subdividing a room or repairing water damage, hanging drywall is one of the most common home reno jobs, and one most homeowners should be able to handle themselves. Both Chris Dore and Dale Hollingsworth recently drywalled basement rooms in their respective homes, and pass on the following tips.
"If you're not used to lifting heavy materials, consider purchasing lightweight drywall," says Hollingsworth. "It's made with Styrofoam beads and reduces the weight of the sheets by about a third, making them easier to work with."
Start by laying the drywall on the floor and marking the location of the joists with a pencil. Then hold the sheets up and screw them to the joists starting at the top of the wall and with the long end of the panel parallel to the floor, using an 18-volt cordless drill and inch-and-a-quarter drywall screws. "Make sure you set the clutch on the drill so the screws stop just below the surface of the drywall and don't go too deep," says Hollingsworth.
Centre the short end of the panels on the joists so you have something to attach the next panel to, and keep going until you've covered the wall. When you have to cut panels to make them fit, use a utility knife to score the paper on one side, snap the sheet in two, and then turn the sheet over and cut the other side of the paper. "Whatever you do, don't cut into the drywall with your knife or you won't get a nice clean break," says Dore. "Just score the paper and the drywall will snap off nice and straight. Use a sharp blade, and be careful. A lot of people cut themselves drywalling."
Once you get your sheets up you have to tape and "mud" the joints with drywall compound. Both Dore and Hollingsworth say they prefer the more expensive but stronger fibreglass tape to paper tape, which can bubble. "I've seen many, many taped joints that have little wobbles and air pockets in them," says Dore. "That doesn't happen with the fibreglass tape."
The taping and mudding of the joints is the most tedious part of drywalling. Start by applying a thin layer of mud to the joints, then press the strips of paper or fibreglass tape into the damp compound. Let it dry, then apply a second layer about eight inches wide, and finally third layer about 20 inches wide, sanding after each application.
"The key is to apply the first layer of mud extremely thin, just enough to wet the tape and hold it in place," says Hollingsworth. "Put it on too thick, and you create hours of extra and unnecessary work sanding."
DON'T MESS THIS UP! Never put joints above doors or windows, says Dore. "If you do, the joints are almost guaranteed to crack because of movement over time and changes in temperature and humidity. Instead, use a whole piece of drywall and cut it so it fits around the doors and windows."
Drywall one room (total 12 x 12 ft)
- Drywall: $192
- Fibreglass tape: $20
- Mud: $100
- Trowel: $20
- Pole sander: $30
- Drywall screws: $6
- Four-foot level: $30
- Drywall saw: $20
- Utility knife: $10
- Total: $428
- Contractor price: $1,600
- Save: $1,172
- Cordless drill:$150
- Tape measure: $25
Building a fence
Perhaps the easiest job-and the one that will potentially save you the most money versus hiring a contractor -is building and installing a wooden yard fence. "Deck and fence contractors are specialists, and hence have a relatively high markup for their work," says Koci. "At the same time, because the tolerances are much greater for outdoor fence work -a quarter of an inch, say, versus a 32nd of an inch for crown moulding-it's something homeowners can do even if they're not that precise with their measurements and cuts."
Chris Dore has installed several fences over the years including, most recently, one for his parents. "You really only have two choices of material," he explains, "cedar or pressure-treated wood, with PT being a little cheaper and offering longer life."
Start by sinking post holes three or four feet deep at either end of your fence run using a rented post-hole bore, and shovel a couple inches of gravel in the bottom of each to aid drainage. Drop the posts in the centre and fill the holes with concrete, using shims and a level to ensure the posts are perfectly straight. Run a string line between the posts and sink the rest of your holes along the line at eight-ft intervals; these middle holes can be backfilled with tamped earth instead of concrete to save money.
Use a cordless drill and inch-long screws to centre a pair of galvanized mounting brackets on each post, top and bottom, at the desired heights. "You can't use regular screws or they'll rust," Dore warns. "You have to use special screws designed for either pressure-treated wood or cedar."
Drop your top and bottom two-by-fours into the mounting brackets between the posts, and the skeleton of your fence is done. All that remains is to add the vertical slats, or pickets: most people stagger the pickets on either side of the two-by-fours.
Use a chalk line and circular saw to cut the top of the posts off at the desired height, nail decorative caps over each for protection, and you're done.
DON'T MESS THIS UP! The ground is never perfectly even, and you never want your fence touching the ground at any point, so measure from the highest point in the yard when installing your bottom brackets and two-by-fours. Keep the ground around the fence free of weeds, bushes and plants. "Any plant material touching the fence will shorten its lifespan by half," warns Dore. "The moisture will rot the wood out over time."
Build a 60-ft fence
- 8 12-ft PT 4 x 4 posts: $118
- 14 8-ft PT 2 x 4 boards: $75
- 28 8-ft PT 1 x 1 mouldings: $30
- 110 6-ft PT 1 x 6 planks: $165
- 8 post caps: $80
- 28 galvanized hanging brackets: $10
- PT screws: $10
- Concrete: $40
- Post-hole auger (rental): $20
- Compressor, nail gun, nails: $200
- Chalk line: $10
- Total: $758
- Contractor price: $2,980
- Save: $2,222
- Circular saw: $100
- Cordless drill: $100
- Level: $30
- Tape measure: $25
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